Saturday 26 July 2014

STAUCC "Easter" trip


It was the 16th of March when I turned up to a chaotic boatshed, so actually nowhere near Easter. However, the uni club have always called the trip that falls on spring break the "Easter trip", so hey ho. The weather in St Andrews was warm (ish) and sunny, though the forecast promised that by the time we were trying to camp tonight it would be pouring with rain. More water for the rivers!
We headed first to the Ericht, fairly close to St Andrews and an easy grade 2/3 paddle.


Playing around on waves and bouncing down the little rapids, we were soon at the get out. Next on the cards was the Blackwater, a tributary of the Ericht up the Glen Shee road. The river starts with a meaty 4 tier grade 4, then later goes through a chunky grade 4 gorge. Today it was looking unfriendly and most of us just got changed back into dry clothes right there and then. Some gnar hunters stepped up though, giving us all some good entertainment. John got a proper trashing in the nasty left side drop at the bottom of the first grade four and decided to also call it a day. Izzy, undaunted by running rather a lot of the rapid on her head, twice, set off into the rest of the river with Rory, Andre and Hugo.

Andre on drop 1.

Rory about to style drop 3.

Watching the carnage unfold.

We ran the shuttle and left John and Dave by Rory and Andre's cars, so we could get a head start on the drive to the Orchy. As we drove west and the sun set, the rain started up, beating incessantly on the windscreen. At bridge of Orchy, unfortunately several tents were already pitched in the wild camping spot just off the road, so we headed down the glen to a half remembered picnic spot below the falls of Orchy. As it turned out, it was really easy to find, super flat and easy to camp on. Contact was made with the others, they'd arrive about midnight, apparently Rory swam and lost a paddle, these things happen. The only problem was that all the food was in Andre's car... Except mine. I'm not that stupid. I set up my stove under an umbrella and cooked some pasta while everyone else rooted around in the cars to find anything that looked vaguely edible. After a bit of miserable chat in the back of the AU car, the students curled up in their tents, while I laid out my sleeping bag in the boot of the car. Nice and dry and warm. Score 1 for estate cars.

Last fall on the Allt Kinglass

The next day we drove to Bridge of Orchy and dropped off some layabouts who wanted to go to the pub rather than go kayaking. The Orchy was at a nice medium level, so while some of the guys ran the Allt Kinglass beside the get in, Jon and I ran a shuttle with two guys we met at the put in. On the drive back up, one of them started talking about paddling the Nith at Christmas time, so of course I told him about the trip I went on to the Nith at Christmas. Turns out it was the same trip. Small world!
We put on at the Allt Kinglass as the others came down the last drop. Floating down to the confluence we listened to tales of gnarly waterfalls and close encounters with rocks. Soon the first rapid came into view, a really big rock in the middle of the river with a grade three rapid passing either side. Imaginatively, this is called "Big Rock". With a bit of muddling our sprawling mess of a group organised themselves into a duckling-follow-my-leader style train, each hoping that the guy in front knew roughly where to go. Bouncing down, the line was fairly easy, but Sarah ran afoul of some sneaky rocks and had a dip in the river. Quickly enough she was back in and we could bimble down to the next rapid.

Chicken Shoot, the non chicken shoot route.
Next up is Chicken Shoot, a big volume grade four with a tight and technical grade 3 chicken shoot. We actually inspected this rapid and set safety, an odd occurrence on this river. From the right bank, the (grade 4) line is obvious enough. The first drop sends you down a flume into a large crashing wave which will spit you either left or right. From here, you just paddle in the direction given, avoiding the large boulders in the middle. Seems fine. A couple of the guys went down, so I hopped in my boat and set off. There was more of a horizon line than I was expecting, but I'd measured the line at a boat's width from the right bank, so I paddled strongly to the lip and shot over, flying down the flume, smash! Into the wave, which way? Wait, centre? Balls. Paddle hard left, left, left, clip a boulder, into the outflow, relax. All good.

Sheep trolley gorge.
The next challenge is sheep trolley gorge, a grade 3 with a monster final wave. We ducklinged it down this one with the vague instruction of "Start left then go right! Or, is it maybe left all the way down? I think you want to paddle hard at the end." Predictably, there was some minor carnage at the bottom of this one, but it was soon dealt with and everyone returned to their boats. All I remember of this rapid was seeing the river open up in front of me as if it was trying to swallow a bus, then I was rocketed skywards and out the end of the rapid!
A bit of bimbling later, we come to the sharp horizon of Easan Dubh and get out. This is a grade 5 and certainly deserves the grade. A bouncy rapid leads into a large drop with various routes. Left is into a really grabby hole, right is a boof, though you risk being stuffed in the cave if it goes bad. Centre was the line of the day, and John, Rory and Patrick styled it, apart from Patrick having a cheeky roll. Meanwhile, the rest of us portaged and found a nice eddy to put in above "Sore tooth", the next rapid, just downstream.

Setting throwline safety on Easan Dubh.

Sore tooth, the ideal line (not my line).
Having never done Sore tooth, I elected to follow our glaswegian shuttle friends who seemed to know what they were doing. Red boat set off first with green boat following (sorry I forgot your names). I followed on behind. We started on river left, with a couple of small drops. Red boat headed off to the left after a larger drop, but I wasn't paying much attention due to green boat dropping into a huge hole and being spat out vertical right in front of me! Quick direction change through a diagonal and I was on some sort of line, heading for a large drop. Boof and hope! I plow through a massive hole and tail squirt out. The run out from here is grade 2 and I float down it, laughing my head off with green boat guy who rolled up and plugged the hole I boofed, but ended up ok anyway. Good times.
We float down for a while, a massive group of us all higglty pigglty across the river. This is not the ideal way to run rapids. John and I are at the front of the group when we hit Rollercoaster, an easy grade 3 that hides a munchy hole if you aren't paying attention. Going through the first wave, water goes in my eyes and blurs my contacts, so I desperately paddle after John's blue blurry blob and hope he's going the right way. Thankfully he is. As I clear my eyes the rest of the group come crashing down the rapid every which way, including quite a lot of upside down ways. Uh oh. There're so many bits of kit and swimming paddlers that I'm not quite sure what to do at first. I look for swimmers, but they all seem to be getting attention. An empty red Ammo floats towards me, so I grab it, dump some water out and nose it to shore. Looking around, no body still needs help, so I hop out and pour the rest of the water out of the boat. People are everywhere, though rather a lot of them are further up the bank, so I head up there. I'm confronted by Izzy's face and lots of blood. Lots of blood. But she's got half the group around her and someone is bandaging things, so that's good. Patsy runs off, phone held in the air to call the guys with the other car that are in the pub. Thankfully she finds signal only a couple hundred meters away. I run down to tell the other guys, who were rescuing various bits of kit and people on the other bank or further down and are now grouped around a couple of swimmers getting back into boats. They have Izzy's boat, so we find a tree and hide the boat beside it. Sam finds the paddle and that goes there too. The red car arrives and speeds away again with Izzy.
Everyone had a little chill moment. The disorganisation at the top of the rapid had led to most people coming down at one time. Unfortunately, quite a few were capsized by the sizable hole at the bottom, including Izzy, who tried to roll up. Into a rock. The rock split her fore head just above her eyebrow because her helmet hadn't been sitting quite in the right place. However, she was conscious and moving around ok, so we hoped for the best.
End of Civilisation? A fun rapid nonetheless!
Soon enough we're back on our way, picking up our glaswegian friends who'd gone around the corner to surf a small wave! The next rapid is named "End of Civilisation" though I have no idea why. It's bouncy grade 3+ down to a big eddy in the middle, then a grade 3 run out with some surf waves. From here it's just round the corner to Eas a Chathaidh, the second grade 5 of the run.

Portaging is probably harder than running the rapid...

John gets the crux boof perfect.

Rory, too far left!

If you've never walked through chest deep mud with a kayak, you just don't know what you're missing. And believe me, you don't want to. Apparently the SCA have put foward several proposals on how to make the portage path, well, a path to start with, but because of the distance to the road the work is too expensive. We slogged around, several of us stood in the river and washed ourselves cleanish, then clambered into good vantage points as John and Rory stepped up to huck the gnar. John styled it to whoops from the bank, while Rory had a little oopsie and bounced off a few rocks on the way down, nearly careening into James who was doing safety for him!
The end was in sight and only Witches step, a straightforward grade 3 drop stood in our way. James signalled everyone into an eddy and John, the Glaswegian boys and me pretended not to notice. Off we went, whoosh down the flume and out, into the final eddy, right beside the cars. High fives all round! Then we sat on the bank and heckled the others coming down.

Sarah on Witches Step.
We head up to the Etive at the Kingshouse and pitch tents in the pouring rain. Hurriedly we all pile into the Kingshouse climber's bar and order food. I have some tasty salmon, yum. The red car arrives back from Fort Bill with a stitched up Izzy. Gina and Izzy are going to head to Oban and stay the night with Amy so Izzy doesn't have to sleep in a tent with a large head wound! Jon spends most of the evening wrapped in his sleeping bag, insisting he's fine and he's going to get up at dawn to go do the Etive. Eventually we persuade him that he should probably go with the girls and get some proper warm sleep and honestly, really, we promise not to get up at five in the morning and run the Etive before he gets here.
It rains all night. I wake up dry and warm to the pattering of raindrops on the windscreen. I waterproof up entirely before setting foot outside.

Photo by Dave Manley.

It takes a long time to get going. The campsite at the Kingshouse is basically a bog, so a few people wake up in puddles. Boats need shuffled around as Cami and James are going away. Some of the boys are insistent that we should look at the Etive put in, just in case it's not as high as we think it is. I point out that the raging river behind them IS the Etive. Finally we agree to go to Fort William Morisson's and from there likely to the Lower Roy. Someone contacts the guys in Oban to tell them where we're going. We head off and make it to Fort William for (very) late morning. Food is restocked, then we stand around the car park for a long time before everyone arrives. To the Roy!



The Lower Roy is on a nice medium level, though fairly boring in a creek boat. We have a swim from Sarah and discover just how hard it is to rescue a flooded Burn with no bow buoyancy. Once we've taken out and regrouped at the cars, there is a lot of standing around talking about possibly doing another river or just going to the bunkhouse, which after all has hot showers and is dry. With my usual tact I tell everyone to hurry up and decisions get made. Some of the guys go off to do the Upper Spean while the rest of us head to the bunkhouse. Today has not been the most successful, and it doesn't pick up yet. First of all, it takes about an hour to find someone to open the bunkhouse as they weren't expecting us so early. For those who went to the Spean, a local landowner in a foul mood confronts them and kicks up a fuss about broken fences and kayakers and "you need to tell them not to go over here". As if all kayakers are somehow in contact with each other... Anyway, being Scottish and a "bit argumentative", I'd have told her where to shove it, but the polite English boys ran away and came back to the bunkhouse. Needless to say, much mocking was dealt out.
The day started to pick up as everyone got fed. I had pasta and sauce, ah that wonderful staple of paddling trips, while the others had the chilli they were supposed to eat on the first night with copious amounts of potatoes! After food, much drinking ensued, including a ring of fire involving rather a lot of nakedness...

The next morning was maybe a bit too bright and early for some, but a bit of grumbling later we made it to the put in for the Upper Roy. The wind was pretty determined to blow us all away up the glen, but we managed to get onto the river without too much drama (I only fell over a couple of times). For some unknown reason someone decided to eddy hop down, which basically involved most of us sitting in eddies for an unreasonably long time, slowly turning into icicles. I got pretty hypothermic by the time we were through the first grade three gorge, so John got out a group shelter and the two of us sat in it while I ate some food and warmed up. Once I was warm(ish) we set out and did a sprint down the river, piling through all the grade three until we reached the first grade four, wish you were here.


We inspected and watched some of the guys paddle down, then got in boats and fired down. Since I was still getting really cold whenever I stopped moving, John and I kept paddling all the way to the take out. At the take out is the second grade four, Rooster tail. I was having difficulty paddling, so just got out and walked my boat up a bit, before walking back down to take some photos.

John on the main line of Rooster tail.

Jon and Patrick on the chicken shoot of Rooster tail.
The long walk out was no shorter than I remembered! On the way back to fife we stopped by the Laggan dam to gaze in awe at the huge amounts of water pouring out of and over it.

Five pipes and a lot of overspill!

Thanks to Andre for organising and STAUCC for providing entertainment!

Tuesday 22 July 2014

Surfing trips, January-March 2014

Wee Eric on the Tay (Thistlebrig) at a sweet level

The winter of 2013-14 was really mild and rainy. For paddlers, it was like heaven had come to Scotland's rivers. I think I paddled in the snow twice! The Tay was consistently surfable all winter, and trips to Wee Eric and the other Stanley surf spots became a regular occurrence. We also visited the Ericht in Blairgowrie, a great river for playing the way down.
Thistlebrig wave, just upstream of Wee Eric, is big, bouncy and fun.

High water Wee Eric, no longer eddy serviced, but worth the quick walk up.

Shudder rudder on Wee Eric

Jen and Graeme have a Wee Eric party surf.

Cold weather at the Ericht put in.

Paddlers in abundance at the Ericht take out.

Carnage on the Ericht with STAUCC

STAUCC.

The good thing about the Ericht, is that if you also brought your creek boat, or like Andre and Jon, you feel like being manly in a playboat, you can drive up to the main tributary, the Blackwater, and run some grade 4 as the sun is going down (it really was by the time we'd cleared up all the carnage).

Blackwater, drop 1 of 4.

Drops 1-3 of 4. You want to be river right of the
boulder on the last drop.

Last drop. I got nailed in the hole!

Findhorn, December 2013

I'm going to do some posts about particular trips in the past year that I got quite excited about but then failed to write about. First up is a trip to the Findhorn, a river about 40 minutes north of Aviemore.

I traveled up to Aviemore on the Friday night and stayed with David and Kirsty, friends from uni. We watched "Despicable Me" which I hadn't seen yet, it was really amusing! Off to bed and lulled to sleep by the trains rumbling past the back of the house. In the morning Kirsty and I set off over the fantastic road to the river: the B9007, also known as the Dava moor road. We arrived at the take out at Randolf's Leap, got changed and left Kirsty's car there. Off we went up to Ardclach, spotting the standard uni group faffing at Logie bridge, an alternate put in, on the way up. We quickly set off from the church, hoping to get in front of the carnage! Not to worry, they were just getting on the river when we passed.
Downstream of Logie is the first challenge, a large midstream boulder to catch the unwary. Kirsty nervously asked me what the line was and my comforting response was along the lines of "Follow me unless I do something stupid."
First obstacle cleared we pulled into the big eddy below, saying hi to some other boaters on a skills course. They were all in big boats like Burns and were amused by my tiny Jed. More grade 2/3 rapids followed quickly enough and we bounced down them no bother. The "big scary grade 3" on this section is called Carnage corner for obvious reasons, though no carnage was had by us that day! After the corner, the river is easy wave trains down to Randolf's leap. Here, the whole river squeezes through a super narrow gap in the cliffs then pours over some stiff grade 4+ rapids below. Taking out above it is super easy as there is a big pool formed by the cliffs! It is really steep though, so I was glad to be lugging a small play boat, not my Burn.
We stuffed the boats on the car and set off back to the put in to collect my car. We met some uni paddlers just getting off the upper section which was at a nice level, hopefully it would hold for tomorrow!
Back to Aviemore for dinner and a demonstration by David of a very silly build a space ship game. Up to Carrbridge and into the B&B for a nice sleep.

The next day was a bit rainy, but hey, that's paddling weather. I drove up across the moor again to meet the guys from Aberdeen at Randolf's Leap. It was looking chunky. Discussions ensued. Eventually some of us did a strategic relocate to the upper section at Dulsie bridge! There we met Aberdeen uni and much banter was had. Looking at Dulsie rapid (grade 4) from above is deceptive. It looks like a friendly wave train, just avoid the really big rock in the middle! It's only from river level that you remember the inspection path is 60 feet up from the river and those little waves are looking pretty big right about now. Nevertheless, the line is obvious. Catch the eddy river left. Cross river right. Wait for signal. Break out hard, paddle, paddle. The river-wide hole you saw from above is a three foot drop, but the tongue you saw is there too, slide and through, power the last two drops and eddy under the cliff, shaking like a leaf. F**k yes.
There is only one swimmer in our group and we sort him out quickly. By comparison the next few kilometers are super tame and we float and bimble down, chatting happily. All too soon comes the horizon line of Leven's gorge, the next grade 4 section. Out we get for a look. Aberdeen uni joins us, all perched on the rock, peering at the crux hole like meerkats. Mike mans up and runs down, punching it on the far left and taking belter of a hit. One of the lads from Aberdeen suggests a boof move on river right which will miss out the hole completely if you get it right, but does land you right in the cross currents which could push you into the least friendly part of the hole. We suggest he tries it out. It goes super smooth, so I go next.
The horizon line is sharp, but I can see Mike on safety with a line and he signals where I should be. The move is a cross, coming from the left and powering right to land in the best water. Power, power, there's the edge, pause, paddle poised, pull and throw the boat out, BOOF. I love that sound. Pefrect landing, but we're still in it, correct and slide down the side of the next bolder, through a wave, eddy! I scramble out quickly and back over the rocks to watch the others come down. Some Aberdeen guys plop off the boof, then the rear paddler of the topo duo, having deposited his nervous bow paddler on the bank gives it the loudest boof noise I've ever heard before calmly paddling round the rock to pick up his passenger.
Next comes Harry, looking calm, but the move goes awry and he goes too deep, slightly too far left. Thankfully the hungry hole goes unfed, though he's still upside down and heading down the rest of the rapid. Popping his deck, he swims, but is immediately plucked out by the Aberdeen paddlers! The others in our group walk the crux and put in on the easier water below. Once Harry is back in we head off down a couple of grade 3 drops, then bimble down the easy water to the take out.
The drive home was long, but that was awesome paddling.
Crux hole in Leven's Gorge. Mike is in there on river left...

Safety first.

Harry boofing off the right of Leven's gorge first drop.
Ideally he would be a bit more river right, pointing right.

Uh oh...

Friday 18 July 2014

It's been a while...

I've been busy. Like, super busy.
When I look back at the posts I wrote before this, it seems like longer than two years though, so much has happened. I got sick. Then I got worse, then better. I got married, I bought a house, moved in, made a garden. I did lots of paddling! I got a new car.
Mostly though, I became a new person. There are some things that change you so completely you don't quite recognise the person you used to be anymore. Since sometime in high school, though I don't know specifically when, I have been ill. That's a long time. Mostly it's been manageable, though there have been bad times. I got Leptospirosis, the more severe form of which is known as Wiles disease, in my fourth year at university and that was a bad time. Eventually I recovered back to my usual sickly self and life continued. I finished my degree and graduated, got a job. I coasted along for a while. I bought a house with my fiance, which was super exciting, but my health was getting really quite bad now. The doctors diagnosed me with irritable bowel syndrome and then with depression and anxiety disorder. Antidepressants helped level out my mood, stopped me from panicking every time I was too ill to go anywhere. Chronic Fatigue syndrome, also known by the more ominous name M.E., was suggested. I was severely anemic. My boss put me on a four day, then a three day contract, to try and alleviate the stress. In May 2013 I collapsed at work and my boss drove me home. That was the turning point.
When I was ill in high school my mum suggested it might be Coeliac disease, an auto-immune disorder triggered by eating gluten, a protein found in wheat, barley and rye. My mum has Coeliac disease, as does my cousin, so there is approximately a 1 in 10 chance that I would have it too. It took a while to convince the doctor to do a test and when it was done I now know, though it does me no good now, that it was done wrong. I have been tested for Coeliac disease a further three times since then, each one of them done wrong. The tests are notoriously unreliable as well which doesn't help.
In May 2013 I decided I was done with doctors telling me they didn't know what was wrong with me. I had all the classic symptoms of Coeliac disease and a very high chance (genetically) of having it. So I stopped eating gluten.
It took about a week to feel better than I had done in years. I was still fairly anemic, so I was put on a course of iron supplements. I started a course of cognitive behavioral therapy to cure my needle phobia, something I would never have thought possible before. By Christmas 2013 I was off anti depressants and set to go back to five days a week at work. In September 2013 I got married and had one of the best days of my life, complete with gluten free wedding dinner! I started to go paddling again, regularly, and signed up to go to the Alps with friends from uni. I discovered I am allergic to egg whites!
"It will get better, just give it time"
That's what someone said to me at the start of my gluten free life. It's been over a year now and I don't know why I ever thought living like I did was normal. Life is wonderful and so much fun and I have an incredible new appreciation for it.

Some photos of the time it took to get here (2012-2013):
Gardening, October 2012.

Meeting Tim Bailey, Olympic gold medalist, October 2012.
New boat! November 2012.

Canoeing in Glen Affric, May holiday 2013.
I was quite ill and spent a lot of time asleep!


Loch Awe paddling, March 2013.


Loch Awe paddling, March 2013

Spey paddling, June 2013

Steam train trip, June 2013

Paddling in Glen Roy with Staucc, September 2013

Married! September 2013

More married! September 2013

Posh hotel, September 2013

Honeymoon! October 2013

More honeymoon! October 2013.

Paddling in the Lakes with Staucc Alumni, November 2013

Upper Findhorn, December 2013

Nith in high water, December 2013